OBO – Page 2 – Keepers Resources

A Few Words from Rach Lynch

My views on the relationship between team goalkeepers have naturally been shaped by experiences throughout my career and the influence of people I have played with and been coached by.

The psychology of goalkeeping is multidimensional. It’s not an easy position by any means and the mental game can often be more important than any physical or technical aspect. I decided to explore the topic of competition and the relationship between team goalkeepers.
Goalkeepers spend more time together than any other position on the field. You know the ins and outs of that person, their technique, their weaknesses, their preferences, how they call, what gear they prefer and so on. Just like in a work place you must be able to work well with this person or it will become a very uncomfortable environment.

Other than at a junior level, most teams will have two goalkeepers. In some clubs, training academies and at the top level, there are anywhere from two to five goalkeepers competing for one spot. Unlike other field positions there can only be one goalkeeper on the field at a time. Some coaches may play a different goalkeeper each half but generally one keeper plays. The rules of hockey state that 18 players can be listed for each game and due to the chance of injury usually two goalkeepers will be picked.

In a training environment it is a good thing to have more keepers as it keeps things competitive. You can push each other. If you are training by yourself you can become lazy and complacent which is never good for a team. I have been fortunate enough to have played my whole international career with exceptional goalkeepers. When I first debuted for Australia I was playing alongside Rachel Dwyer (nee Imison) who is someone I have idolised ever since I started keeping. She taught me many things in the five years we played together for Victoria and Australia, not just hockey wise but also about how to be a well rounded athlete and person. Rach was an extremely professional athlete who pushed herself to the limit with everything she did and was never afraid to share her knowledge and help others along the way. It would have been very easy for her to keep it all locked away knowing I was competing for her spot but this was not the case. If she saw an opportunity to teach me something she took it and I really admired her for that. Rach retired after 2008 and will always be known as one the best keepers the world has ever seen.

The dynamics amongst the Australian women’s goalkeeping group has certainly changed and evolved over the eight years I have been involved. Usually in the Australian squad we train as a group of three or four keepers. During those eight years I have spent my fair share of time on the bench or left back at home while the team tours. In 2008 I did not play a single game before the Olympics and in 2012 only played three, yet I trained day in day out with the two other keepers who were getting picked- It was very difficult! But I have been on both sides of the spectrum and so it is these times that make you really appreciate your selection and strive to be better. You learn very quickly that non-selection is not something you can blame the other goalkeeper for. You will be angry and disappointed yes but if you have any bitterness towards the other keeper then you will never be able to train and work harmoniously.

As with all team sports you must keep in mind what is best for the team. There will be times where you may be in the form of your life yet still do not get picked. Here is when you can take comfort in the fact that you have pushed the other keeper to be better and the decision made by the coach is in the best interest of the team.
My view on it all: it is about having respect for the other keepers, helping each other learn and improve but never losing that competitive drive to be the best. The hours you put in on the training track gets you in the best shape and form possible so that when the time comes to play you are ready. If on that day you are not picked’ then the priority becomes supporting the keeper or keepers who are, whilst ensuring you are ready to go should the situation change.

Id love to hear others thoughts on the topic. Please feel free to share them below 🙂

Wondering what the best set of OBO pants to buy is?

Is it the Robo Bored Shorts? Or the Robo Hot Pants?

qna
Question:

Hey dude
How’s it going?

Wondering what the best set of OBO pants to buy is?

Is it the Robo Bored Shorts? Or the Robo Hot Pants?
The website puts the bored shorts higher than the hot pant but I am asking the expert..

Cheers

Reg

Answer:

Hey Reg,

I wouldn’t say which pants are best, but I can tell you they both offer great protection. The Bored Shorts are a one piece pant with the protective padding built in. Unlike the old Smarty Pants, Bored Shorts are snug. They don’t require over pants, while the Hot Pants do. Personally, I prefer the Bored Shorts. Having said that, if you play on abrasive turfs and slide a lot I’d suggest wearing over pants with the Bored Shorts.

Cheers,

Jon

CK Helmet Refurbishment by Alastair Hume

Three years ago, I decided to refurbish and repaint my Obo CK helmet…

Three years ago, I decided to refurbish and repaint my OBO CK helmet. The default black paint had become a grey colour after exposure to the sun, and I wanted to try and create a custom colour scheme. So, I sanded it down to remove the clear coat and prepared the old paint surface for the new undercoat and paint. I also replaced the metal and plastic fittings, repainted the grill and replaced the internal foam. The end result was this.

It looked good for about a year, after which it started to become chipped and cracked and the clear coat started to flake and leave white residue on the helmet surface. So, before the start of this season I decided to redo the helmet completely from scratch, using better materials and more thorough processes to ensure a better end result.

Before you start.
Ensure you have adequate space to conduct this particular refurbishment. Setup for painting should be outside or in a well ventilated area, free of dust and particulate. I have a large paved area in the back garden which is out of the way and protected well with some cardboard and newspaper which I use for another painting project, which is quite good for this sort of thing.

Ensure you have enough time to conduct the refurbishment. This is not something you can do in between matches on a Saturday. This would definitely be something to do during the off season. I managed to finish this completely over the course of 3 weeks, on and off in conjunction with work. The main reason for this long time was the use of many thin coats of paint and long curing times for the filler material combined with life in general getting in the way.

Materials
You will need:

OBO Helmet Cage
OBO Helmet Replacement Foam (9 piece)
OBO Helmet Chin Cup [Note: some replacement foam packs include a chin cup so you may not need to buy a separate one]
OBO Helmet Forehead Pad Sweatband
OBO Elasticated Back Strap
OBO Helmet Fittings Set

Sand Paper – 80/120 grade
Wet and Dry Emery Paper – 400/600/1200 grade – used wet in all cases
Masking tape
Methylated Spirits
Old rags/cloth/old tea towel – non fibrous material
Newspaper/cardboard/tarpaulin to paint on

Spray Undercoat/Primer (car paint)
Spray Paint in colour(s) of choice (car paint)
Spray Clear coat (car paint)

JB Weld/Bondo/Other filling material
Copydex or other latex based glue.
Hot glue and glue gun

Gloves
Face mask
Safety Glasses

The specialist OBO helmet materials are available from Gilmour sports in the hyperlinked list above. The rest of the materials can be bought from most decent hardware, car body shops or similar retailers. I went to a small car body shop called JK Autospares in Belfast to get most of my materials. Retailers like this are usually quite happy for your custom and are generally quite helpful.

I list a face mask, glasses and gloves on the materials list as we will be sanding either carbon fibre (CK) or glass fibre (FG), as well as the cured polymer/resin associated with the bonding process. Sanding material like this will not produce particles small enough to inhale and cause long term damage to your respiratory system, but it will cause irritation if inhaled. As a result, I have covered all bases in terms of protecting your lungs and nose from harm. Composite fibre is also particularly irritant to your skin. It will leave unprotected skin feeling prickly, nearly like a rash. This will go away in time, but I recommend gloves and a long sleeved shirt to protect against this.

It should be noted that this is strictly an amateur’s guide to how to paint this type of helmet. It is based on my research and experience and is by no means a fully professional way to go about it.

This guide is not intended for use with OBO Poly P or PE helmets.

Step 1 – Preparation
Remove all the plastic fittings from the elastic straps and then remove the elasticated back plate of the helmet. Now remove the elastic webbing from the back piece and set aside.

Step 2 – Remove Internal Foam
Take a picture of the inside of the helmet to ensure the correct placement of replacement foam, then carefully remove the internal foam and set aside. This can be done by carefully peeling it away from the surface of the helmet. A thin sharp knife can also be used to cut away the adhesive and to scrape away any small parts that are stuck to the composite. The composite is much harder than the foam, but try and avoid damage to the internal weave of the carbon kevlar or fibreglass. Try to keep as much of the old foam as possible intact, as it can be used again if required. I left my foam inside the helmet until it came to spraying the undercoat, but this is personal preference, as my foam was pretty grubby and covered in paint from the previous refurbishment, so it was going straight in the bin anyway.

Above is a picture of the foam placement for reference.

Step 3 – Remove Fittings
Remove and collect all of the metal fittings from the shell of the helmet. If the metal screws have rusted or corroded to such an extent that you cannot unscrew them you may have to drill them out. Use a high speed drill and a 4 mm metal bit for the best results. Pay particular attention to the metal stud collar that the plastic fittings snap into. These parts are not included in the OBO Replacement part pack, so they have to be refurbished and reused.

Shown above here are new studs from a spare helmet of mine, in comparison to the old studs that have just been removed. I managed to damage mine when drilling them out, so I contacted Mike at OBO to secure some replacement parts. If they are undamaged, but rusted badly then put them in some rust removal solution or some Coke to improve their aesthetics.

Step 4 – Sanding
Start to sand the surface of the helmet down using the 120 grade sandpaper. If in doubt, use a finer grade of paper, you can always sand more material away if needed, but you can’t replace it once its sanded away. I used an electric sheet sander for the initial run through, to take the majority of the old clear coat and paint off, then I used a sanding sponge to take the rest of the surface down to Carbon Kevlar weave. The electric sander is good for the flat surfaces of the helmet, but is terrible for the curves and recesses, which is why either a sanding sponge or just plain old sandpaper is good for this process. After this, go over the helmet with the 400 grade wet and dry for a slightly smoother surface.

The pictures below show the helmet after the run through with the sheet sander, the sand paper and the wet and dry respectively. As you can see, the paint is removed on the flat surfaces, but is still present in the recesses and curves of the helmet. I ended up not sanding the remaining paint off, as I felt the surface was as uniform as I was going to get it.

Step 5 – Surface Preparation
Take the methylated spirits and wipe some over the helmet with the clean rag. You can also use a specialised degreasing product, but meths works just fine. This will clean and prepare the surface for the undercoat.

At this point you should also check the helmet carefully for any marks, imperfections, dents, cracks, or parts that will create a non-uniform surface. If you have none of these, you can move on to the next step which is applying the undercoat.

To address the imperfections, I sprayed a thin coat of spare white paint to help highlight the imperfections, before filling the holes in with JB Weld. I then left it to cure, before sanding the JB Weld down with the wetted 600 grade wet and dry. The thin white coat was to create a large differentiation between the filler material and the helmet, as well as to give some extra protection when sanding the filler material off the helmet with the wet and dry.

Repeat this step as much as necessary. I had to do it twice as I missed some small chips after the first pass with the filler. I ran out of the white paint, so I used a spare can of grey for the second run, which is shown below.

Below are both steps, after applying two separate passes of the filler material

Step 6 – Undercoat
The general procedure for spray painting is to spray a large number of thin coats, using the wet and dry in between coats. This is the best procedure to follow for the best finish, i.e. to avoid drips and to provide a smooth finish. Take the meths and degrease the helmet surface. After this is dry, gently and carefully go over the surface with the 120 grade wet and dry. Then take the spray undercoat and shake for the recommended time, usually 2/3 minutes. Spray the work from the recommended distance, remembering to spray evenly by starting and finishing off the helmet.

Here is my set up. The helmet is propped on three corners by some pieces of foam. It is about an inch and a half to easily access the lower surface and to avoid the helmet becoming stuck to the cardboard.

Leave the paint to dry for the recommended time. I had a lucky couple of days where it was sunny, warm and dry, so I had about an hours turn around in between coats. After each coat is dry, take the 1200 grade wet and dry, wet it and sand down the surface until smooth. Repeat as required until the undercoat is uniform and smooth and ready for painting. I did as many coats as my spray can would allow, which was about 5.

I left the large grill hole of the helmet open, as after this, I applied one coat of undercoat and a quick black coat of spare plasti-kote to the inside of the helmet as well.

The pictures below show the helmet after the first coat. I didn’t take pictures after every coat, but needless to say the helmet was a lovely smooth solid grey at the end.

Step 7 – Masking and Preparation
At this point you should start to prepare and protect the helmet for painting. Use newspaper and masking tape to form a barrier along the inside of the helmets grill opening. Ensure that the newspaper is taut to the inside surface of the helmet, so no paint can get in. My helmet was pretty horrendously taped, but it did the job.

At this point I decided on my colour scheme. I really liked the look of Joyce Sombroek’s blue and orange custom design, so I decided to do something similar in my club colours so I chose paint in red and black for Cliftonville HC Belfast and to match my TK pads.

However, in hindsight I would recommend that you paint the helmet only one colour. The two colours might be really nice looking and a great idea, but the end result will have a degree of discontinuity for a number of reasons.

Unless you are incredibly accurate with really steady hands, it will be difficult to accurately describe a proper geometric curve using the masking tape, especially on the helmets curved surface
If you are able to describe a curve such as this, it will be difficult to repeat it on the other side, and will be tricky making it central and therefore symmetrical
The fact that you are using two colours means that there will be a bump or obvious line at the interface between the colours. While I addressed this by sanding/wet and dry-ing the bump, it can not be completely removed easily.
No matter how long you leave the helmet to dry after painting, there will always be some part of the paint that will come off when you are removing the masking tape. To put in perspective, professional painters go as far as baking/heat curing the workpiece to avoid this

I was quite lucky in that I managed to get my stripe quite central, but there was a bump between the two colours, as well as some overlap where I failed to mask correctly, as well as paint pull off where the tape damaged the paint. I am pretty pleased with the helmet now, but I will always know the small problems and annoyances that came as a result of choosing to paint it two colours.

Step 8 – Painting
This step is similar to the undercoat step, only we are using paint, so remember, large number of thin coats, wet and dry in between. Don’t forget to keep the newspaper and masking tape you used to cover the large grill hole of the helmet. If you are doing two or more colours, then remember to start with the lightest colour first, as if you make a mistake corrections can be made using the other darker colours. Again, degrease the surface and wait until dry. Then, shake the paint can for the recommended time and spray from the recommended distance remembering to start and finish off the work. A coat should take you 30 seconds to a minute. My paint said it was touch dry ready for another coat in 15 minutes, but I left it for an hour until I started to use the wet and dry just to make sure.

I should mention just how fantastic wet and dry is. It is the reason for the smooth surface and a high quality surface finish. The 1200 grade used in between coats gives the paint a good surface to adhere to, while simultaneously giving the surface the ‘feel’ of being smoother. The use of it wet in gentle circular motions abrades the paint and will give a noticeable difference to the feel of the paint after applying, this smoothness lets you know the areas you have and have not sanded down in between coats.

Repeat the above steps until you have an even, uniform, solid covering of paint. For the red paint below, I did 10 coats, which was the majority of the can.

The pictures show some mistakes in the painting as there was some red overlap where the masking tape didn’t cover correctly. It also shows that the freehand masking of the curve is not completely symmetrical and the red stripe is a bit off centre to the right.

The next step after this was the application of the black paint. Follow the same procedure as above to get a similar surface finish. I used the whole can of black, getting about 7 coats before I stopped. At a guess, a regular rattle can of car paint should last you 5 full coats if you are painting your helmet the one colour.

Step 9 – Finishing.
I should start by stating that I skipped this step, as I was happy enough with the finish that I had after completing the painting stage. After all, the paint I used was spray car paint and was designed to be the finish for a car that doesn’t require a clear coat.

However, I did use a clear coat when I painted my helmet the last time, so these instructions are valid, even if they were not used for this particular refurbishment.

Degrease the surface once more. Then take the 1200 wet and dry, wet it and carefully and gently sand the interface areas where the two different paint colours meet to take away the bump or line that will have formed on the masking tape. Wipe with a clean rag and leave to dry before degreasing again in preparation for the clear coat. The clear coat should be done in the same manner as the previous coats of paint, however no wet and dry should be used after spraying. I did one high quality coat of clear and left it at that.

Step 10 – Metal Fittings
Get the bag of fittings and attach the new grill to the helmet, being careful of the metal on the newly painted surface. Ensure you match the correct screws to the correct back plates and that you put the helmet grill clips in the correct places. Use the pictures below to ensure the grill is positioned correctly. My technique for this was to prise the metal helmet clips open and then put them around the grill, then use the tightening of the screws to close them. I found if you put the grill on and hand tighten the screws before tightening them fully means that you won’t force the screws and put undue pressure on the holes in the helmet. Then put the snap studs back on, remembering that the velcro fitting for the chin cup attaches on the inside of these studs. Position the velcro so that it can accommodate the new chin cup, then fully tighten the screws into position.

Step 11 – Foam
With reference to the picture below showing the layout of the foam, take the new foam and apply to the inside of the helmet. Test the fit by placing the foam dry, with no adhesive on it. The larger parts of the foam will need to be bent and shaped before glueing, as they will pull away from the helmet surface and the glue will not hold. From inspection of the old foam, I could see that some sort of latex adhesive had been used. It is for this reason that I used copydex, as I know it will not damage or affect the carbon fibre or fibreglass.

Start with the largest curved piece that goes around the outside and then continue using the numbered picture below.

The method for glueing with copydex is to paint a thin coat on both surfaces, then wait for it to become tacky before putting the two pieces together. I found copydex was fine for the large curved piece (#1) as it was easily weighted with a book or a bag of flour, as well as for the smaller wedge pieces (#5 & 6), as these are not curved very much. However, due to the large curve of the other pieces, (2, 3, 4, 7 & 8) I found the copydex wasn’t as effective, as it kept lifting off the helmet surface due to its large curvature. As a result, I used a hot glue gun for these pieces instead. The use of the hot glue means that if you decide to refurbish the foam again, you will have to rip the foam and it will not be salvageable. Draw a line of glue around the edges of the foam and put a small amount in the middle of the foam before quickly placing and positioning the foam. Hot glue dries fast so be careful. Don’t forget the helmet back piece, use copydex and a heavy weight for this one.

Notes for positioning

#1 sits flush to the top edge of the helmet and continues in a curve around to the sides
#2 sits central to the helmet, ensure it is positioned correctly as to leave the top hole open for the elastic
#3 & 4 are pushed quite hard against #2. They should form a continuous surface if you look at them side on, with no gaps in between. #3 & 4 also sit flush with the grill hole and gaps to the left and right should be equidistant
#5 & 6 should be positioned quite tightly against #2 & 5 & 6. Also they should not obstruct the two side holes for the elastic.
#7 & 8 are tricky. They should cover the screw and part of the elastic, but they are hard to place without either sitting out of the grill hole, or out of the bottom of the helmet.

Step 11 – Plastic Fittings
Take the new elastic back strap and thread it through the back piece of the helmet as shown below.

Then thread the individual pieces of elastic through the corresponding holes and attach the plastic fittings. Three flat fittings for the middle hole and the holes either side and two snap stud fittings for both the far sides of the helmet. At this point you should also fit the new chin cup and sweat band to complete the refurbishment.

Jon’s Tips: Painting Your OBO Helmet

For all you creative OBO-ites who’ve been asking about painting your OBO helmets but aren’t sure how to go about it, here’s some ideas and advice based on recent experience. If you’re handy and keen, you can jazz up your helmet at a reasonable price on your own.

I need to start off with an advisory, if you’re not handy, this is best left to professionals. You can find mask painters on the internet. Depending on the part of the world you live in you might have to ship it away and depending on the type of mask you have it may not be worth it. Professional painters will charge anywhere between $200-$400 US based on how complicated your design is.

If you are handy, but haven’t done this type of work before, PATIENCE (note capitals) is a key skill. Painting a mask properly is not done in a day. Preparation is the other big word. A paint job is only as good as what’s under it and if you don’t do the prep work and get a good smooth, clean surface to paint, it will show in the paint. In keeping with the P theme, the other key to a good paint job is planning.

There are a number of ways to paint/decorate your mask and a lot will depend on the type of mask you’re painting. The OBO CK and FG masks are made from either Carbon Kevlar or Fibreglass and are painted (or have a finish on them) while the PE, Poly P and ABS helmets are essentially plastic without a finish.

Before you commit to painting your helmet, I recommend taking to Youtube and looking at some of the entries under GOALIE MASK PAINTING. Most of them show the work of professionals and involve airbrush work. There are low-tech ways to paint masks and the video below is a particularly good clip:

The mask that’s shown in the video involves painting and vinyl decals. Vinyl decals are another way to decorate your helmet and can be custom done by any Sign Shop that has graphics arts programs. They’re durable, easy to apply and can be a way to incorporate more intricate, detailed designs relatively cheaply. An expensive set of vinyl decals could be $60US. If you’re going to paint your helmet with anything other than one colour, expect to spend at least $40+US for spray paint.

At the planning stage of painting your mask, you should have a good idea of the design and if this is your first go, I’d recommend keeping things simple. If you’re somewhat artistic, draw the design out. You can trace a template of the mask if that helps and lay it out. Assemble your materials, paints, masking tape, sandpapers, paint stripper, scrapers, screw drivers, pliers, adjustable wrench, etc. Spray paints that are designed for cars are best for masks.

As mentioned, preparation will depend on whether your mask already has a finish on it. If it does (CK or FG helmets, you’ll need to take the clear coat and any paint off first). Regardless of type of helmet, you want to remove the cage and any other helmet hardware. Depending on the state of your helmet, that can be tricky as screws can rust (hence the wrench and/or pliers). If you’re helmet hardware is in a really bad state, have replacement hardware lined up before you get too far along. It doesn’t make a whole lot of sense to have a flash paint job and rusty old screws. Set aside your hardware and make sure it’s in a good place.

Step one of preparation starts with a good wash with a mild liquid soap, a plastic scrub brush and a good dry. A couple of notes about spending time and money on your paint job, your finished product will reflect what you put in, especially on what you do before you paint. Quality materials won’t cost a fortune.

My project was a half painted Flame FG helmet that I was looking to personalize. I wanted to tone down the Flames, accentuate the raw natural fibreglass and add a little simple trim. The first bit was stripping off the clear coat and painted section. When selecting paint strippers, read the directions carefully and make sure they’re suitable for your helmet. Most automotive paint strippers are fine for FG and CK helmets, not for PE, Poly P or ABS types. You will need to use a scraper to remove the paint. A word to the wise, work with the contours of the helmet when scraping and as much as it is scraping, be gentle. You don’t want to leave gouges or deep scratches when you scrape as you’ll have to sand or fill them later.

Next up on the prep front is sanding. Sandpapers come in a number of types and grades. The higher the grit, the finer the paper and there is dry and wet sandpaper. If you’ve done a good job with your stripping, sanding should go in rounds. First round is a medium grade (400-600 dry grit paper) and sanding should be done lightly in a circular pattern to smooth out major surface irregularities. Depending on how smooth your painting surface is, you may be able to go directly to wet sanding with a fine paper (1200-1400 grit). Both the mask and the paper (grit side) should be wet when wet sanding and with fine papers, more sanding is better as you won’t sand into the masks composite materials.

Once you’re satisfied that the mask is smooth and clear of residue paint, you’re ready to start painting. Once again, paint work will depend on your paint job. For my mask, I wanted to retain the natural fibreglass look for most of the helmet so clean and smooth was as far as I needed to go. If you’re looking to completely paint your mask, then primer is next. You can buy sandable primer and if your mask isn’t completely smooth, it’s a good idea. Before applying primer, make sure you’ve completely washed, rinsed and dried your mask. Primer is the bond for paint and if you don’t have a clean, dry surface the primer and paint won’t adhere. You also won’t likely need to paint the inside of your mask. You should tape the cutout for the cage and other holes to prevent spray getting on the inside.

You’re now ready to prime. Using primer will be good practice for painting later. Whatever paint or primer you use, READ THE DIRECTIONS. Not all paints are the same and this is especially true as it applies to spraying multiple coats and for primers, how long you need to wait before spraying colour over it. When spraying coats of primer or paint, multiple light coats are better than single heavy coats. Heavy coats of paint take longer to dry between coats and are more likely to sag or drip. Make sure you’re spraying in a bright and well-ventilated area.

Once you’re happy that you’ve got a good primer coat down, you’ll need to wet sand with a fine paper again. Make sure mask and paper are wet and be light with the paper and work in a circular pattern. Rinse with clean water and then let the mask completely dry.

Painting will depend on the complexity of your paint scheme. If you are using multiple colours, your base colour should be the one that covers the majority of the mask. Like primer, read and follow the paint instructions, especially as it applies to multiple coats of paint and the time between coats. Once again, many, light coats are preferable to fewer heavy coats. Be patient, if you’re in a hurry, it’s easy to overspray and get drips. If you do get drips and you’re looking to do a quality job, it’s far better to stop early, let the paint dry and sand the drips out. Hoping to get the drip out by spraying more coats of paint on, rarely works well.

Depending on your design, you may need to tape when spraying other colours. A couple of notes on taping, buy good masking tape (professional painters grade). Nothing will botch your best paint plans up faster than using bad tape. Make sure the paint layer under the colour you’re taping is fully dried and cured. If it isn’t, the paint will adhere to the tape and come up when you remove the tape. Check to make sure the tape is fully adhered between coats, especially in curvy areas of the mask as tape can release. Lastly, make sure the paint is dry before removing tape. If you do get some wobbly lines when you remove tape, you can always re-tape and spray the adjacent colour or if it’s only a small bit and light you can try rubbing it out with a small bit of paint remover on a rag.

Once you’re satisfied with your paint, the last step is clear coat. Plan on using all the clear coat you get in a large spray can, it’s basically the only thing that protects your paint. Recurring theme, lots of light coats are best. Once your clear coat is dried, wet sand the finished product as that will level the finish.

Painting a PE, Poly P or ABS helmet is much simpler. There’s no paint or clear coat to remove, you don’t need to prime and you can use a plastic paint on the helmet. You’ll still need to apply a clear coat to protect the paint and make sure it’s compatible with the paint you use.

November Sale 2013

It’s finally here! The annual event you have all been waiting for…

It’s finally here! The annual event you have all been waiting for. All sale details can be found on the following page…

From your friends at OBO.

Leg Burner!!

Join OBO and USA National Goalkeeper Jackie Kintzer for a leg burning fitness session!

This drill is a “leg burner” with lots of footwork combined with making a desperation save and a second shot save. You start by doing quick feet (stepping over the baseline and back with both feet 3 times), moving through the cones wither forward or laterally, putting 2 feet between each cone, then drop stepping back toward the far post before diving and attempting to make a desperation save, followed by a second shot. We typically only do this 3 or 4 times on each side because it is very tiring, but will have you in good shape!!!

Let us know how you get on! Good Luck!

Can I paint my OBO helmet?

qna
The helmet you have has a clear coat of lacquer which will need to be stripped before you paint….

qna
Question:
Can I paint my OBO helmet?

Answer:
The helmet you have has a clear coat of lacquer which will need to be stripped before you paint. What type of paint you use will depend on how you are going to paint the helmet. For simple paint jobs you can use aerosol cans of spray paint. Depending on your artistic abilities and resources, you may use an airbrush. Whatever way you paint (paint brush, spray can, air brush), the quality of the finished product depends on your preparation. You will want to remove the cage and straps so you have clear access to work/paint the mask. I would recommend Brudtärna klänning using a paint stripper to remove the finish.

After you strip the lacquer, thoroughly wash and rinse the helmet and allow it to completely dry. If the helmet has residue or dirt, the paint won’t adhere. You will need to sandpaper the helmet to get the helmet smooth. Start with a rough sand paper and then you will want to use a fine wet/sandpaper to get a smooth finish. Then you will apply your paint. Once the paint is done, you’ll put the clear coat on. If you use a spray paint, look for an automotive paint and/or Clear Coat/Lacquer.

I just got done painting a helmet and to do it properly it will probably take a week depending on how detailed you want the paint job to be. The big thing is don’t rush and make sure you follow the instructions on the paints you use. If you use several colours, each colour will have to fully dry and cure for the paint to properly adhere to the mask surface. If it doesn’t fully cure, you’ll get big chips when a ball strikes the helmet. You will probably want to protect the paint with several (at least four or five) coats of clear coat. Good luck and let me know if you have more questions,

Cheers,

Jon

Taping arm pads

A simple but effective tip for those arm pad wearers out there, who use the removable Obo pads (which also give you more set-up options, if you think about it versus attached ones sewn into the body armour!), more specifically, is to tape them! With the design of the elbow pad that goes around the bone, rather than a hard shell fixed in place, you will see a lot of Obo arm pad users taping their pads to ensure the pad stays fixed in place and gives more flexibility when bending at the joint for those glove saves nearer the body. The tape helps hold the inner bicep protection in place for the newer range of Obo pads, whilst at the same time also helping keeping that bend at the joint for all important flexibility for those instantaneous reflex saves. Some electrical tape taped around the arm pad in this way, will help to keep the pad together and give important movement as stated. With taping, it essentially forces the foam into the bend that you need for that bending motion for save making whilst wearing the arm pads.

Otherwise eventually the padding can come loose or just become a nuisance! Like Filip Neusser’s (Czech international and great at indoor!) whose arm pads demonstrate. It’s not the greatest example, but you will be able to notice the effect and get the idea! So with taping, it’s simple but useful when keeping the arm pad together, also helping the pad bend at the joint, for when you turn and bend your arm for glove saves.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/12608538@N03/8431574403/

One I did earlier like the Blue Peter saying is a poor attempt by myself to illustrate using some old Obo arm pads I have knocking around, to illustrate how it’s done. A quick bodge job but you get the idea and basics of it! Notice the taping centrally to keep that bend and movement, whilst also helping to keep the padding at the elbow in place and central, over the elbow, to provide all important coverage:

Here you can see Germany’s international second choice Reuss who uses Obo body armour and arm protection, with taping to hold the circular pad at the elbow in place and also to help keep the padding above the elbow (on the forearm) firmly in place:

http://www.gettyimages.co.uk/detail/news-photo/reserve-keeper-felix-reuss-of-germany-takes-a-break-during-news-photo/157837162

And here is retired international Ali McGregor in his playing days with Loughborough Students with taped arm pads:

Goalkeeper or shot stopper?

As you look to move on from the basics of shot stopping and evolving your game as a goalkeeper, you need to think (perhaps thinking hard and conscientiously about it, if you want to!) about how you play as a goalkeeper, and your roles and responsibilities within the team. About how you need to work to intercept and interrupt passes by the opposition to stop them from gaining a chance to score. When you consider it, a goalkeeper should be able to shut down attacks and passing opportunities, providing a presence behind their defence that is able to do their job when the defensive line is ‘caught short’. You will see goalkeepers at the elite levels who play a more proactive style, rushing out to tackle or clear away the ball, especially in the indoor game, where being active and aggressive in challenging and intercepting a pass is really important for a goalkeeper to succeed in the fast paced indoor arena.

And you need to work on being confident stepping off your post or your “line”, if you are to challenge the opposition and restrict their opportunities in your D to score. Bringing in the ability to disrupt chances by coming out to tackle and so forth, you will be able to limit the opposition’s chances. Good shot stoppers are worth their weight in gold, but they also need to be able to have an important impact on their game in order to achieve success.

Pure shot stopper

All goalkeepers are shot stoppers, but some are more inclined to hope on their ability to make the save, perhaps expecting the defence to do the job of intercepting passes and for them to stay where they are. Rather than go out to challenge if needs call upon them to, unable to see past the lens of a goalkeeping simply being there to make the saves (that might have drawn them to the position in the first place) and the need to step out of goal at times to shut down a scoring chance by kicking away a loose ball or going in for a decisive tackle, for example. As a position in our sport, this is an important aspect of the way we play within the game, like football goalkeepers who need to come out and catch crosses on corners, or rush out to tackle, versus ice hockey goalies who are not going to come flying out of their zone to slide tackle a player (unless they’re Dominic Hasek!), or floorball, where it is more a case of shot stopping. And it needs recognising! For some, not others, probably though!!

In a negative way, you could consider a case example of a goalkeeper rooted to their line and fearful of coming out to tackle or intercept. But rather than coming out to challenge, in a positive light, they do themselves an injustice by staying back against the play and expecting a shot to be stoppable. Passively hoping to just have to stop shots instead of be involved in the play, even if a case of a difficult redirect is a potential possibility, say for example. Not confident in their ability to tackle, or just unable to see the point in doing so. A goalkeeper that stays where they are, on the spot, hoping that they will do ok facing a shot that might come in from the top of the D say, that doesn’t come out to tackle or chase lose rebounds, instead expecting to be able to stop all shots.

A ‘goal’ ‘keeper’

Goalkeeping is more than just being there to get behind shots and save them, unfortunately! And the way you approach goalkeeping will have a significant impact on the way you play. You can either be a goalkeeper where you expect to just be there to stop shots and end up not doing a good job of ‘owning your D’, or make sure this isn’t the case! If you take the structure of the word goalkeeper, you can literally get “goal” and “keep”; in this way of thinking, can you consider yourself a goalkeeper who ‘keeps’ their goal? Do you look after your D, or do you stay on your line and get beaten by chances that you could have stopped through coming out to challenge? Do you stop chances turning into goals by eliminating them before they happen, or do you get beaten by them?

Your job as a goalkeeper is more than just simply the saving aspect, there is also passes and potential breakaways to contend with! It’s about more than standing there and being on angle and in the right spot at the right time, all of the time. Wherein a goalkeeper needs to be able to come out and tackle or intercept and will be able to when these situations present themselves. Think about breakaways where you stand a better chance of rushing out to challenge, if you go in for that glorious slide tackle, where you will take the ball off the play and stop the shot happening in the first place. Or interceptions, where making the interception will eliminate the passing option and prevent a high risk scoring opportunity.

Goalkeeper versus shot stopper

When you think about, goalkeeping is more than just a case of shot stopping. You can’t expect to save every shot if you play like that, so making sure you actively play a part in shutting down scoring opportunities means that you can work things into your favour. As you develop and play more games and get more (as a beginner anyway!), you will soon realise and notice that it is more than just the save making that may have brought you to playing the position in the first place.

Sometimes you need to do more than just stop shots. The “sweeper keeper” idea and conceptualisation epitomises the way a goalkeeper can (attack being the best form of the defence!), with the goalkeeper making use of their aggressive abilities to shut down chances instead of having to make the potential save, acting like an extra defender in the way they are involving themselves in the game. Elite goalkeepers are more than just shot stoppers and capable of tackling and challenging appropriately, bringing an extra dimension to their game.

Take this video montage of world class Guus Vogels (who has obviously retired recently, leaving way for Stockmann to take over in his place, for Holland). Notice how amazing his shot stopping abilities are, but also how he is involving himself in the game, making important diving interceptions and challenges; diving off the post and reaching out with his stick say or sliding out to intercept a breakaway forward:

If you think about it, you need to be able to do this as well as make saves when it is right to. Eliminating scoring chances before they happen is an important part of goalkeeping as save making is and you need to know this! It may look good if you have stats where you face a lot of shots or end up saving a lot of shots, but that could also be down to poor rebound control or allowing scoring opportunities to happen by not being proactive like this, so it is important to reflect on the way you play and how you go about the concept of ‘keeping’ goal.

Be a goalkeeper!

Ultimately, you need to be more than just a shot stopper. And a goalkeeper at that! There is more of a responsibility to your team to help them out by challenging and doing the defensive work by coming out to intercept a breakaway among other roles. Therefore there are effectively two sides or parts to a goalkeeper: a shot stopper and an active ‘keeper’ of goal. And if you want to go far up the hockey ladder (or at least improve!), you need to be both! Any goalkeeper worth their weight in gold (or goalie legendary status, take the phrase as inspiration!), as already mentioned (oops with déjà vu!) is a great shot stopper but more importantly also a dominant force within the D. So, make sure you are able to do this, and be a goalkeeper and not just a save maker!

Elegant kvinnlighet spets brudklänning är 2017 bröllop inget undantag. Den känsliga spets brudklänning kan användas för att beskriva en tunn spets täcker bara bröst och skulderlinjen , skapa extraordinära skönhet, det ser mycket attraktiv.

Own-goal rule: opinions wanted!

Hi again guys! For my column for Push hockey magazine this month, I’m taking a look at the “mandatory experiment” that is the own-goal rule. Personally, I’m with Jamie Dwyer: I think it stinks. But what do you guys think of it?

I’d love to hear lots of keepers’ opinions on this, so, whether you love it or hate it, let me know by dropping me a line at richardsmyth100@hotmail.com, or by tweeting me (I’m @1stAmongEquals1). Thanks!