I wrote a previous article, regarding the Hi Rebound Right hand, and I wanted to share further developments with you guys! =)
Almost a year ago, I managed to get hold of the new mercian right hand glove… and I have to be honest! I really really liked it!
I liked it so much, it gave me some ideas on what I needed to do… to my already modified right hand!
I personally believe that a gk’ers stick is an extension of the arm and the technique/ philosophy, “should be used as if your catching a tennis ball with a straight arm”.
So I removed the whole back of the glove… so that the stick could be inline with my forearm.
put the inner foam back in its original spot and cut the same line!
Secure it with tape
Also I removed the wrist strap entirely and put in a thumb strap… similar to the Hi control glove… & tape through the stick gap to make the finger strap!
In the original models I put the thumb strap close to the front foam… and something that I have noticed when struck around the thumb area it bloody hurts!
so I added a slice of a left handed protector on top which gave better rebound and protection, but moving on from that, I simply relocated the thumb strap further back into the glove… preventing the thumb being compressed by the ball on the foam!
I personally think it has all the benefits of the hi control movement and keeping the stick at the same angle as the glove (especially on the deck) with the high rebound foam and surface-size! =)
The only 2 areas I’d like to improve on the glove is the bottom part – where the glove rounds off… If that could become flat so when diving bottom right or logging the glove doesn’t rotate making the save with the front foam and the flat side of the stick! second! thicker foam (similar to the LH) as its very thin in comparison!
Warning!!! there is very little protection on the back of the glove on mine! I have seen keepers with unusual movements been hit there so just be careful if you do these mods as protection will be less and keep the moments correct!
At the moment i have the OBO OGO Kickers and pads which are supplied by my club but im looking to buy some OBO ROBO Hi-Control Kickers and i looked oon my OGO Kickers the other day and i found out that they were medium! My question is: Are OGO Medium Kickers the same size as the ROBO Hi-Control Kickers?? PLEASE HELP!!
I did this video quickly the other night, it’s how I replace my Obo front kicker kicker straps. I find it the quickest easiest way. Let me know what you think! Or if you have a different/better way of doing it?
Hopefully the above should work. Otherwise go on to You Tube and type in ‘Replace Obo kicker strap’ that should work.
The club I play for has been updating all our kit so I have just received the new robo hi-control kickers. Unfortunately nobody checked with me for sizing so I’ve been given the large kickers (uk size8 1/2+) and I am only a size 3 1/2…:S
I wanted to know if there’s anyway I can make the kickers fit me better (except for tightening all the buckles obviously) or if it will affect my game and I would be better off playing with my old pair of yahoo kickers.
A simple tip, but taping your helmet above the eye line will help block out the sun, which can otherwise be a distraction.
If you play in a distinctly hot and sunny climate, glare is going to be a continuous problem and bane to your playing abilities. Rather than standing around with your glove put over your eyesight to try and block out the sunlight, it’s better to have something to maintain the coverage against glare. With summer hockey now upon most western european countries (like the UK), the sun becomes more of a prominent issue when trying to perform at your best. The basic method of blocking out sunlight is to tape the top of the helmet you wear. You will often seen internationals doing it when it is particularly sunny (like Australia’s goalkeepers did in recent tournaments), so even the best use its simple methodology!
Taping the helmet
A simple, but really effective way of keeping the sun out of your eyes is to tape the top of your mask, above the eye line. By doing this, you cut off the light showing down on you, eliminating the sunlight that would otherwise get through to your eyes. You want to tape over the bars of the helmet, to make sure it blocks out the light, before taping the ends onto the sides of the helmet, to keep it on.
‘Gaffer’ tape (which is cloth based tape used for stage production) will give your a bigger coverage, so you do not have to do multiple layers in order to block out the sun. Insulation/duct tape (used to insulate electrical wires) makes a great alternative (it is less likely to leave behind a gooey stain!), but due to its thin width, it often requires a few layers to get good coverage (just simply tape below the original line to get another). It is also good to know about the colour you use. Taping with white tape will reflect the sun light, rather than absorbing it (like black or a dark colour), making it easier to see.
Zinc oxide tape is a great stick grip for goalkeepers.
Players spend a great amount of time taping their stick handles to get that extra for drag flicking or strong hits. Goalkeepers, as kit addicts, should also spend as much time if not more tweaking their equipment to suit their needs. I got this tip from Sparta hockey (the famous goalkeeping coach duo of Steve and Panda in England) and have find it to be extremely useful ever since.
Zinc oxide tape is a great alternative stick grip for goalkeepers. The grip itself is soft and smooth, but at the same time grippy, making it easier to slide your hand up or down the stick to change position of where you are holding it easily. Zinc oxide tape is great for gripping the stick in extension; giving you for when you extend the stick out (lowering your hold in stick tackles or extended stick saves i.e. when diving) and then want to hold it high again.
Where can I get it?
Auction sites like ebay are great places to buy it. Zinc oxide tape is supposed to be used for medical cures to cover blisters, so you should be able to find it in pharmaceutical stores too.
Taping the stick
The tape itself is self-adhesive, with the underside being the sticking surface. Therefore all you have to do is roll the tape around the stick, with the non-sticky side facing you, to get it to tape to the stick. The technique is to wrap the tape around the stick, so that you get the tape to cover the stick handle; try to work diagonally to cover more area. It is easy just to simply tape over an existing grip (unless you want to remove it!), as a double tape grip gives you more to hold on to. To finish off, you can wrap some insulation tape around the ends to cover them and prevent any peeling.
I have robo sp kickers (large) and am having problems getting them to sit flush with the sole of my shoe and also the front strap always comes off – currently I just have asic running shoes. I know I’ll never get a perfect fit but does anyone know any particular shoes that accommodate robo large kickers well or any ways of modifying shoes to allow a more secure fit?
Hi, I’ve asked the same question on FHF, but wondered if anyone esle on here had a view or indeed OBO had some specific “official” advice as this seems fairly funderrmental bust isn’t covered in the user guide on this site:
I’m having a bit of bother with my new OBO high rebound RHP (same I’m assuming applies to similar models from TK, monarch etc).
I’m quite keen on attacking the ball with my hands (as camel and Spartan advises), trying to move towards the lifted ball and to control the rebound either by deflecting or slapping the ball away where I can. Mostly I’ll bring my LHP across as it is just easier, but I’m making a conscious effort, since my Spartan coaching in the summer, not to reach too far across my body and over rotate, putting me off balance.
In the summer I swapped to the Obo HR RHP due to its increased blocking area for this kind of stuff. However I’m still really struggling to get the flat face of the RHP to the ball. In my ready position I have both hands held identically (as I believe is correct) which means the LHP is flat side out and the RHP is flat side towards my body.
The problem is that as I reach forwards and out towards a wide ball to my right, stick vertical, the face is never flat to the ball in the way the LHP is and I often end up saving the ball with the smaller area designed for penalty corners or deflecting the ball back across my-self with the angled face? It is not such a problem for balls that are below the waist, (as it is flat to the ball when the stick is horizontal) or very wide, as I’m generally not taking these as far in front of myself due to the dive.
I know it has been suggested previously to drop the hand guard back in your stance and hold it wider, but I don’t really want to change what I think it one of the only areas where I am technically correct to accommodate my equipment! On the other hand (pun intended) I don’t want to go back to the HC RHP as it is so much smaller and I really like the HRs extra something in slide tackles (which is surely the wrong way round)!
Sorry for length of post, wanted to give as much detail as possible. Advice appreciated?
With such positive feedback and interest with ‘making the HR right hand even more perfect’ 😀
Something I touched on in my previous article was the OBO ‘left’ hand. I wanted to show you the alterations I’ve made on this glove which I think makes the glove a lot better (I’d say perfect)!
When I wore my first Robo kit (hi control) in 2003 at 13 years old something I always did was to leave the wrist strap undone, to have full wrist movement. To me this strap seemed point less and I removed it! I’ve seen many other gks do this. Chris Hibbert (South African Keeper) demonstrates this in the picture below!
Talking to the goalkeeping wizard Jimi Lewis (who also removed this strap) showed me the modifications he did for all his career in OBO and playing for Great Britain in the Athens Olympics (same picture) 🙂
I want to show you the 5 stages to make the left hand even more ‘Perfect’
Stage 1, remove the strap (keep the strap for your perfect high rebound right hand alterations as a ‘spare’ just in case 😉
Stage 2, mark the cuts! keep it about 1-2cms above the indents on the soft foam
Stage 3, cut along your marking
(Optional stage 4) if the glove is brand new… doesn’t matter so much, it’s better when the glove is loosened. Have some strong tape. Put it in the middle of where the soft foam meets the harder foam and wrap around tight!
This is becoming more common on different brand gloves as well. Shown by Nick Brothers (Current England Goalkeeper)